During these trying times of COVID restrictions, international travel to Patagonia has stopped to a crawl. And although vaccinations campaigns are slowly turning the tide, many questions still remain unanswered about the feasibility of free, unrestricted travel, throughout its territory.

Traveling in Patagonia

There are a few factors to have in mind while considering a visit to Patagonia. Its long distances and rapid changing weather need to be included as variables that can shift quickly at any giving moment.

First, make sure you research the condition of the road and the access options to a giving site. Many Patagonia national parks might have adjusted their visiting hours because of the pandemic. Plan what route it’s better to take. There are many provinces and territories with poor infrastructure, missing signage, and bad paved access (this is specially dangerous during the rainy season). Last thing you want to do is to get stuck in the middle of the Patagonia desert. If you are renting a car, make sure that the spare tire is present, and that you have tools to replace it in case of an emergency.

Second, local authorities should be able to inform you about the current situation of the Patagonia national parks and their activities. In Chile, the national parks are managed by CONAF authority and in Argentina by Parques Nacionales.
It’s also a good idea to contact the local tourist office to answer any specific question regarding access. Our experience has shown that they usually are better informed about local restrictions.

Having a defined itinerary might be a good idea, especially when many road authorities inquiry about your destination.

If you are interested in traveling with us, please check out our next Patagonia Phototour.

Many people visit the Glaciar Perito Moreno every year. I imagine that a little less so during this 2020-21 world pandemic. Nevertheless, to fully experience what it’s like, you need to get closer. A lot of people simply observe its colors and forms through the comfort of the platform sections overlooking the ice giant. That is a great way to admire it, but I do think that just a glimpse of its grandiose.

Walking on the glacier makes you feel small. It reminded me how vast it is.

We started our journey early in the morning at the port site of the park. We quickly crossed the lake and commenced our ascent bordering the ice. At about 25min of walking, we found good access to the ice. Everyone got their crampons on and slowly proceeded to find a route towards the center of the corridor. No picture can really express what this looks and feels like. As stated before, I’m describing my experience knowing too well how flawed this might turn up to be.

In my last November visit, we saw multiple ice lagoons on top of the melting ice sheets. The colors of the scene create a quite pretty contrast between the bright turquoise water, the ice sheets which are reflected with the blue skies.

After a few hours of walking, we stopped to enjoy our lunch (oh, by the way, you need to bring your own. No working vending machines inside the glacier) I can say without a doubt, that it was one of the most spectacular views I ever shared during lunch. Once we were done, we set everything up to resume our trekking and return to camp. As always in any park, we were very careful not to leave any trash behind.

The return was easier than the initial walk. We walk on the edges of the glacier towards the small camp where we shared some hot cocoa and coffee. After the small break, we embarked once again to cross the lake and to finish the adventure.

Perhaps you care to join us in our next photo adventure.

Isla Magdalena, Magallanes Region

The Isla Magdalena is about 35 Km from the Chilean city of Punta Arenas in the Magallanes region. It takes about a forty-minute boat ride to reach its shores and, because of the straight’s strong winds, reaching the island can be a choppy experience. In our last photo tour, the winds were calm and our journey was very peaceful.

Back in 1837, the Chilean government enacted a decree for the construction and organization of a national network of lighthouses.
The Isla Magdalena lighthouse dates from a much later time. It was constructed by the Scottish engineer and architect George Slight in 1901 and became operational by the following year. Originally, the installation of the lighthouse consisted of a house with five bedrooms, an office, an oil tank and a store, plus kitchen.

In 1976, it was declared of historical importance due to its strategic location and function to the shipping trade lines.
This maritime route was the original navigable link between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans which precedes the Panama canal.

In 1981 the Chilean Navy delegated the maintenance of the site to CONAF, the Chilean park services, who has an active presence year round. There are two park rangers that take care of the lighthouse’s structure and protect the animal colonies.

Wildlife at the Island

During the summer, the Isla Magdalena becomes the breeding ground for its vast penguin population which hides its chicks underground to protect them from predators. The land is filled with holes which provide refuge to the colony during high winds. It also keeps the chicks safe and warm during the Patagonian night.
The waters of the Strait are abundant with mollusk and crustaceans which are the staple of the colony’s diet.

Join us when we visit the Isla Magdalena to photograph its landscape and wildlife. Check out our coming Patagonia Photography tour.

All photos taken by DWaisman with Sony A7RIII, 100-400 mm, and 1.4 teleconverter.

Where can you find El Pitío?

El Pitío likes to travel from branch to branch of the tall forest trees. Its scientific name is Colaptes pitius. Torres del Paine Park is a great place to find birds of Patagonia. As a woodpecker, it distinguishes itself from other birds due to its unique songs and pitch. The people that I met in Magallanes told me about the many meanings of the Pitío’s songs:
The locals hear El Pitío’s music as a welcoming greet, although some see it as a warning for predators.

One of the original inhabitant of Patagonia, the Mapuches, believed that el Pitío used its songs to warn other birds of a nearby predator. The changes to El Pitío song meant the departure of danger.

Many Chilean poets and painters have dedicated many pieces to this bird.
Many poems, songs and paintings have been inspired by El Pitío’s songs. Its presence has become a staple of the region and a true local inhabitant of Patagonia.

The variety of wildlife and bird-watching in Chile, and in the Magallanes region, is vast. The fertile valleys create ideal conditions for many migrating birds to flock during the summer and retreat north during the winter months.
In a very short and small trip, there are many opportunities to sight-see many animals in their native environment; such as penguins, seals, guanacos, condors, and pumas. In just a 100-mile radius you can discover and photograph amazing scenes without extensive traveling.

All in all, the many birds of Patagonia make the place ideal for bird watchers and wildlife enthusiasts.

In our Patagonia Photography tour, we have many opportunities to photograph birds and to El Pitío.

More about this bird can be found at its Wikipedia page

Millions of years ago, this rough and semi arid ecosystem witnessed a drastic change with the sudden extinction of the dinosaurs. Paleontological digs are very common in Patagonia. They tell the story of earth’s ancient inhabitants, where giant dinosaurs roamed the land of what we now call the American continent. A testament of this can be found at the museum of Carmen Funes, in the province of Neuquén where,  the largest specimen of the dinosaur ever recorded (the Argentinosaurus), is on display.

People from all over the world travel to Patagonia due to its beauty and unique topography. This is in part due to its magnificent peaks which create the longest continental mountain range best known as the Andes. The mountains extend for over 4,300 miles and journey from the southern tip of Tierra del Fuego all the way into western Venezuela.

Patagonia’s weather is defined by the Andes elevation. It functions as a barrier to the wet Westerlies winds that blow relentlessly from the South Pacific ocean. Tales about the ferocity of the Patagonian winds abound and are not to be taken lightly. Its wind gusts has been known to bend car doors as well as light posts.
The Andes mountains also delimit the border between the countries of Argentina and Chile, which share the Patagonia region, as well as some of very photogenic and unique national parks.

Perito Moreno Glacier:

The Perito Moreno glacier is by far one of the most exciting destinations in Patagonia.

Loved by all Patagonia photography enthusiast, the glacier is located near El Calafate, in the Argentinean province of Santa Cruz.
Contrary to many glaciers around the world, the scientific community has recorded the expansion of the Perito Moreno glacier in recent decades, despite global warming.

Ice breakups are a spectacle not to be missed and they usually occur during the summer months.

Glacier’s observation deck is close to the waters of Lago Argentino. This scenic spot faces the lake and allows for a direct view of the ice giant just steps from land.
The glacier can also be accessed by foot and water.

Many reputable companies organize boat expeditions around Lago Argentino. This is a perfect way of exploring the area for photographers.  The park has many precious spots that can only be reached by water.

Whilst both the deck and water excursions are well worth the journey to this location alone, the activity that in my opinion tops everything else, has to be the trek on top of the ice mass. It’s not everyday you have the chance to walk into a glacier!
The surface and some of its ice formation can be reached on ice walking treks which provide for fantastic photos. This is an absolute incredible adventure.

Tip: Leave the tripod at the hotel, It might be difficult to carry a lot of equipment on the icy adventure.

Patagonia Photography Tip:

Clothing is important! bring shoes and clothing appropriate for ice walking. During summer, the abundance of water due to the higher temperatures might create very slippery paths.

I hope you’re planning a trip to South America. We organize a Patagonia photo tour which not only visits the Perito Moreno glacier but the other Patagonia locations perfect for more Patagonia photography.

Please consider joining us in our upcoming photo tour. We are local to South American and to Patagonia. All our staff is bilingual and are very passionate about their own photography. If you are planning a photography trip to South America, contact us.

2020 COVID update:
Many airports remain closed due to the pandemic in the region. Argentina has no available flights until September of 2020. Some of the low cost airlines are having a lot of trouble to stay in business. We hope an improvement in the availability of flights for next year.

It’s important to organize your itinerary properly ahead of your Patagonia photo tour. Patagonia is a vast and large section of South America where the regional airports are small and have limited connection service. Patagonia’s airport options are a crucial part of your trip since ticket availability might fluctuate during different parts of the year.

Most of the Patagonia airports don’t receive international routes. Most of them behave as regional community hubs. International travelers first arrive to Chile and Argentina’s international airports prior to their connecting flight to a Patagonia airport.
Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires, has three airports with daily connection flights to most of Patagonia; these are: Ezeiza – Ministro Pistarini (international), Aeroparque – Jorge Newbery (domestic), El Palomar (The  low cost domestic airport has been shut down for commercial flights). Chile’s capital, Santiago, has also daily flights to many Patagonia airports from Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez airport.

Patagonia Airports:

Bariloche, Rio Negro,  Argentina

Teniente Luis Candelaria Airport (Patagonia Airport Code: BRC)

This is perhaps the biggest Patagonia airport in the region due to the importance of San Carlos de Bariloche as a tourist destination inside Argentina. The Airport is served by all the major airlines: Aerolineas Argentinas, LATAM, Flybondi (low cost airline that only flies from El Palomar airport), Jetsmart (another low cost airline that flies from El Palomar airport), Andes and Austral.

2020 update:
LATAM has left the domestic Argentinian market.  It’s not possible to travel non-stop from the USA to Argentina with this carrier.
Austral’s union is merging with Aerolinas Argentinas and it’s supposed to be absorbed by the national airline. Low cost airlines have been grounded for weeks and their future is uncertain.

A round trip from Buenos Aires might cost an average of $250 to $300 american dollars depending on season’s demand and the time of year.

El Calafate, Santa Cruz, Argentina

Comandante Armando Tola Airport (Patagonia Airport Code: FTE)

This Patagonia Airport serves mostly tourist due to its proximity to the Perito Moreno glacier. This is also the perfect place to travel to a Patagonia photo tour due to its proximity to the Andes mountains and national parks. Airport’s daily flights are mostly domestic, with a few international routes originating in Chile.  It takes approximately a 3 hours trip from Buenos Aires and the average price of a ticket is about $300 to $400 dollars round trip to get there. You can book a flight to El Calafate Airport with Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM.

Rio grande, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

Gobernador Ramón Trejo Noel Airport (Patagonia Airport Code: RZA)

Rio Grande airport serves the local population of Tierra del Fuego and its one of the two main airports in the island. Tourist demand is low. Most passengers are locals travelling inside the island or to other airport hubs. There are daily domestic flights from and to this airport to Argentina’s capital.  Aerolineas Argentinas is the only major airline serving this airport. A round trip flight from Buenos Aires can cost an average of $400 american dollars.

Comodoro Rivadavia, Santa Cruz, Argentina

General Enrique Mosconi Airport (Patagonia Airport Code: CRD)

Comodoro Rivadavia’s airport is a large regional airport in the province of Santa Cruz. There are more flight connection at CRD than at Santa Cruz other airport, El Calafate. You can book a direct flight to Buenos Aires as well as to other connecting hubs in other provinces of Argentina. Most of its daily traffic accounts for local passengers traveling to Argentina’s capital. This Patagonia airport does not receive international flights. The major airlines connecting to this airport are: Aerolineas Argentinas, LATAM, Austral Airlines and LADE.  The average round trip fare cost $400 american dollars

Trelew, Chubut, Argentina

Almirante Marcos A. Zar  (Patagonia Airport Code:TRE)

This regional airport serves the city of Trelew as well as Rawson in the province of Chubut. This is the biggest airport to near Puerto Madryn,  a small town founded in 1865 by 150 Welsh settlers who decided to organize a community in South America far away from their homeland. Madryn is also famous for whale watching from June to December. The airport receives daily flights from Buenos Aires. Average ticket prices are around $350 american dollars. It’s served by Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM.

Rio Gallegos, Santa Cruz, Argentina

Piloto Civil Norberto Fernández  (Patagonia Airport Code: RCL)

Rio Gallegos is a Patagonia airport in the province of Santa Cruz. It serves mostly domestic routes as well as an international flight from Punta Arenas, Chile. The airlines arriving to this airport are: Aerolineas Argentinas, LATAM, Austral and Lade. There are nightly daily direct flights from Buenos Aires through LATAM at an average price of $400 american dollars.

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

Malvinas Argentinas International Airport (Patagonia Airport Code: USH)

This Patagonia airport is 4Km away from the city of Ushuaia. It receives daily flights from Rio Grande and Buenos Aires. It’s the biggest and closest airport to the Beagle channel and its proximity to the end of the American continent puts Ushuaia at a unique place among other Patagonia airports. A round trip airfare from Buenos Aires cost an average of $380/$400 american dollars. There’s only a daily direct flight with LATAM. It takes about 3 hours and 45 minutes. Aerolineas Argentinas has a two stop flight originating from Buenos Aires for a little more. This information might change in the future. This was the information available at the time of writing this article in May of 2018.

Puerto Montt, Región de los Lagos, Chile

El Tepual Airport – (Patagonia Airport Code: PMC)

Puerto Montt’s Patagonia airport has daily service to Santiago as well as small regional airports in the región de los lagos. The flight time from Santiago is about 1 hour and 45 minutes. It’s served by LATAM, Sky Airlines and Jetsmart. A round trip ticket average price can be found from $250/$300 american dollars

Punta Arenas, Región Magallanes, Chile

Presidente Carlos Ibáñez del Campo Airport – (Patagonia Airport Code: PUQ)

Punta Arenas is one of the largest Patagonia airports serving a non-stop number of flights from Chile to the region. The airport is also utilized by the Chilean air force. It’s main traffic comes from charter and airline tourist flights. The major airlines that are: LATAM, Aerovias DAP, Sky Airlines, Jetsmart. The airport is not far from Punta Arenas city center and has many daily flights from Santiago. The average ticket fare from Santiago is around $250/$300 american dollars. Some Patagonia cruises originate from Punta Arenas during the summer months.

Puerto Natales, Chile

Teniente Julio Gallardo airfield – (Patagonia Airport Code: PNT)

This tiny little Patagonia airport had its runaway expanded during 2016. It currently receives a single flight from Chile’s capital, Santiago, every Thursday afternoon. This 3 hour flight is expensive. Perhaps more airlines and destinations would be available in the future.

Have you visited any of these airports?

How was your experience ? Share your information with all of us so we can maintain and keep all the Patagonia airport information current for new visitors.

Thank you!

The Cave is located at the province of Santa Cruz, Argentina and relatively close to both the city of El Calafate and the Perito Moreno glacier.

The art painting dates from 13,000 to 9,000 years ago and early artwork has been carbon-dated to ca. 9300 BP (about 7300 BC). We believe that the site was last inhabited around 700 AD, possibly by ancestors of the Tehuelche people.

The paintings of left negative stenciled hands, suggests that the painters held the spraying pipe with their right hand or that they placed the back of their right hand to the wall and held the spraying pipe with their left hand.

As with other European cave paintings – Almeria and Lascaux – there are also local animals depictions such as Guanacos, rheas and felines. The Cueva de las Manos also shows other paintings representing geometric shapes, zigzag and hunting scenes. As with its overseas siblings, these images had a profound ritualistic meaning to the Patagonia inhabitants. It served as a spiritual connection with the environment, the animal’s soul as a way of understanding the circle of life from an early human perspective.

When to visit Cueva de las Manos

The Cueva de las Manos can be visited year round.

It is most easily reached by a gravel road (RP 41), which leaves Route 40 3 km north of Bajo Caracoles and runs 46 km northeast to the south side of the Pinturas Canyon (Painting Canyon)

If you’re attending our Patagonia photo tour in November, this is a worthwhile visit. The cultural importance of the Cueva de las Manos site has a deep connection with the first inhabitants of Patagonia.

Both the traces of their human development, meaning and identity is as valid today, as it was in pre-historic times.
If you go, don’t forget to place your left hand on top on one of the many silhouettes.